https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Zhtr_CfmZZ84fK9gHA47Jw

來吃菌啦!

In Yunnan’s rainy season, even the air is permeated with the fresh aroma of mushrooms.

雨季的云南，連空氣都浸潤著菌子的鮮香。

“As soon as the rainy season arrives, all kinds of mushrooms come out, and the air is filled with their scent.” More than 40 years after leaving Kunming, writer Wang Zengqi still couldn’t forget this fresh flavor. Wild mushrooms, affectionately called “junzi” by Yunnan people, are not only a delicacy of the plateau but also a cultural symbol deeply ingrained in the local gene.

“雨季一到，諸菌皆出，空氣里一片菌子氣味?！弊骷彝粼麟x開昆明四十余年，仍對這口鮮味念念不忘。野生菌，云南人親切地稱它為“菌子”，不僅是高原的珍饈，更是一種深入肌理的文化符號。

Part 01

Recognizing Mushrooms and Savoring Flavors:

The Wisdom of the Mountains

識菌知味，山野的智慧

Yunnan people have long-standing rules for eating mushrooms. The local adage says, “The more beautiful the mushroom, the more toxic it is; don’t eat mushrooms you don’t recognize,” reflects the most genuine reverence for nature. Porcino（Boletus）， jizong(termite mushroom), matsutake, “jianshouqing” (suillellus luridus, a type of toxic but edible mushroom when cooked properly)... Behind each name lies a local story.

云南人吃菌，自有其傳承已久的講究?！霸狡恋木釉接卸?，不認(rèn)識的菌子不吃”，這句民間老話，道出的是對自然最本真的敬畏。牛肝菌、雞樅、松茸、“見手青”……每一種名字背后，都是一段風(fēng)土故事。

To protect the generosity of the mountains, many places in Yunnan have implemented the “mountain contracting for mushroom picking” model. In Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, the right to pick wild mushrooms in collective mountains is contracted to villagers, with unified management and scientific picking, which not only protects the ecology but also promotes income growth. Wild mushroom farm stays have become a bright spot in rural revitalization.

為守護(hù)這片山林的慷慨，云南多地推行“包山采菌”模式。楚雄彝族自治州將集體山林野生菌采摘權(quán)承包給村民，統(tǒng)一管理、科學(xué)采摘，既保生態(tài)，也促增收。野生菌農(nóng)家樂，成了鄉(xiāng)村振興中一抹亮麗的風(fēng)景。

Part 02

Hidden in the Mountains,

Thriving in Farmhouses

藏于山野，興于農(nóng)家

In Shuicheng Village, Chadian Town, Wuding County, every rainy season, mushrooms quietly pop up – some hide under pine needles, some nestle in depressions, as if engaging in a natural game of hide-and-seek with mushroom pickers.

在武定縣插甸鎮(zhèn)水城村，每逢雨季，菌子便悄悄探出頭——有的隱身松針之下，有的藏匿洼地之間，像是與采菌人玩著一場自然捉迷藏。

Many tourists, after picking mushrooms, take them directly to the village’s farm stays for processing. “During the busiest time, we receive two to three hundred people a month,” said Zhu Guangneng, the owner of “Zhu Family Courtyard.” After sorting, cleaning, and cooking... the fresh flavor of the mountains turns into delicious dishes on the table. In just one mushroom season, the 11 farm stays in Shuicheng Village can generate approximately 800,000 yuan in revenue.

許多游客采菌后，會直接拿到村里的農(nóng)家樂加工。 “朱家小院”的老板朱光能說：“最旺的時(shí)候，我們一個(gè)月要接待兩三百人?！碧魭?、清洗、烹飪……一道道工序之后，山野鮮味化作餐桌佳肴。僅一個(gè)產(chǎn)菌季，水城村11家農(nóng)家樂就能創(chuàng)收約80萬元。

Part 03

A Sri Lankan Mycologist’s Love Affair with Yunnan

一位斯里蘭卡菌物學(xué)家的

云南情緣

Samantha from Sri Lanka is now a foreign expert at Qujing Normal University. His life has long been intricately linked with wild mushrooms – studying the classification, phylogeny, and domestication of wild mushrooms is his dedicated career.

來自斯里蘭卡的薩曼塔（Samantha），如今是曲靖師范學(xué)院的一名外國專家。他的生命早已和野生菌緊緊相連——研究野生菌分類、系統(tǒng)發(fā)育和馴化，是他專注的事業(yè)。

In high school, the colorful wild mushrooms fascinated him, and he was determined to make this his career. Later, he studied mycology in Thailand, where he met his Thai wife, Tibpromma, who also loves mycology. In 2012, a field trip to Xishuangbanna made him feel the unparalleled diversity of wild mushrooms in Yunnan for the first time. Since then, he has made up his mind: he must return to Yunnan.

高中時(shí)，色彩斑斕的野生菌就讓他著迷，并立志以此為業(yè)。后來他在泰國攻讀菌物學(xué)，結(jié)識了同樣熱愛菌物的泰國妻子提布若瑪（Tibpromma）。2012年，一次西雙版納的野外考察，讓他第一次感受到云南無與倫比的野生菌多樣性，從那時(shí)起，他就下定決心：一定要回到云南。

In 2016, his wish came true. He and his wife entered the Kunming Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy of Sciences, for postdoctoral research. When he first came to Yunnan, he couldn’t speak Chinese, but with his love for mushrooms, he could chat happily with mushroom vendors in the market. He was not only curious about the Chinese names of each type of mushroom but also wanted to know how Yunnan people cook them – and this opened up a brand-new culinary universe for him.

2016年，愿望成真。他與妻子一同進(jìn)入中科院昆明植物研究所從事博士后研究。初來云南，他雖不會中文，卻憑借對菌子的熱愛，能和菜市場的菌販聊得投機(jī)。他不僅好奇每一種菌子的中文名字，更想知道云南人如何烹飪它們——而這，為他打開了一個(gè)全新的美食宇宙。

“Foreign mushrooms are often cooked alone, but in Yunnan, people can put more than ten kinds of mushrooms into chicken soup to make hotpot!” Mushroom hotpot has now become an important way for Samantha to connect with his students.

“國外的菌子往往是單獨(dú)烹飪，但在云南，人們可以把十幾種菌子一起放進(jìn)雞湯里做火鍋！”菌子火鍋如今也成了薩曼塔與學(xué)生交流情感的重要方式。

“As soon as the rainy season arrives, all kinds of mushrooms come out, and the air is filled with their scent.” More than 40 years after leaving Kunming, writer Wang Zengqi still couldn’t forget this fresh flavor. Wild mushrooms, affectionately called “junzi” by Yunnan people, are not only a delicacy of the plateau but also a cultural symbol deeply ingrained in the local gene.

“雨季一到，諸菌皆出，空氣里一片菌子氣味。”作家汪曾祺離開昆明四十余年，仍對這口鮮味念念不忘。野生菌，云南人親切地稱它為“菌子”，不僅是高原的珍饈，更是一種深入肌理的文化符號。

Part 04

One Mushroom, One Flavor: Yunnan’s Philosophy of Fresh Cooking

一菌一味，滇式烹鮮哲學(xué)

Yunnan people value the original flavor of mushrooms highly. Stir-frying and braising are the most classic ways to prepare them.

云南人吃菌，極重本味。炒與燴，是最經(jīng)典的演繹。

Jizong are stir-fried simply with green peppers, resulting in a milky white, sweet, and delicate soup. Porcino(Boletus) is sliced and stir-fried with garlic, green onions, and chili until fragrant – one bite, and the mushroom aroma mixed with the wok’s heat strikes the soul directly.

雞樅清炒，輔以青椒，湯汁乳白、清甜細(xì)膩；牛肝菌切片，伴蒜蔥辣椒爆香，一口下去，菌香裹挾鍋氣直擊靈魂。

The humble thelephora ganbajun, though time-consuming to clean, conquers the taste buds with its rich and unique aroma. When used to fry rice, every grain absorbs the essence of the mountains.

其貌不揚(yáng)的干巴菌，清理雖費(fèi)工夫，卻以濃郁異香征服味蕾。用它來炒飯，每一粒米都吸飽山野精華。

And mushroom hotpot can be called the “masterpiece of fresh flavor.” Simmer chicken to make the base, then add eight to ten kinds of mushrooms in sequence, and wait patiently for 20 minutes. Before the time is up, don’t touch the chopsticks – this is the ritual sense Yunnan people have for eating mushrooms. When the pot is opened, first drink the soup, then eat the mushrooms: the plump “jianshouqing,” the tender porcino(boletus), the crisp bamboo fungus(phallus indusiatus)... every bite feels like a gift from nature.

而菌子火鍋，則堪稱“鮮味的集大成者”。土雞熬湯作底，八至十種菌子依次下鍋，耐心守候二十分鐘。時(shí)間未到，筷子不發(fā)——這是云南人吃菌的儀式感。開鍋那一刻，先喝湯、再吃菌，見手青肥厚、牛肝菌滑嫩、竹蓀脆爽……每一口都是自然之吻。

Part 05

Visit a Mushroom Market, Experience Yunnan’s Liveliness

逛菌市，體驗(yàn)云南式熱鬧

If you can’t go to the mountains yourself, you might as well go to a wild mushroom market to feel the atmosphere. Kunming’s “Mushuihua” Wild Mushroom Trading Center has become a popular check-in spot for young people.

若無法親自上山，不妨去野生菌交易市場感受氣氛。昆明“木水花”野生菌交易中心，已成為年輕人熱衷的打卡地。

Every afternoon at three or four o’clock, as soon as the mushroom transport vans stop, they are surrounded by crowds. Experienced buyers act quickly – “I want this basket!” With that, a basket of mountain treasures finds its owner. This is not just a market but a living scene of Yunnan’s rainy season.

每天下午三四點(diǎn)，運(yùn)菌面包車剛一停穩(wěn)，便被圍得水泄不通。經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的買手眼疾手快——“這筐我要了！”一聲落下，一筐山珍便有了歸屬。這里不只是一個(gè)市場，更是一場云南雨季的生活現(xiàn)場。

Part 06

Technology Empowers, Realizing “Jianshouqing Freedom”

科技賦能，實(shí)現(xiàn)“見手青自由”

Behind the delicious taste, technology is injecting new impetus into the sustainable development of the wild mushroom industry.

在鮮美滋味的背后，科技正為野生菌產(chǎn)業(yè)的可持續(xù)發(fā)展注入新動力。

In the Kunming Edible Fungi Research Institute of the All-China Federation of Supply and Marketing Cooperatives, artificially cultivated “jianshouqing” have grown plump caps. Assistant Researcher Liu Qimeng stated that after years of research, the team has finally successfully cultivated a new variety of “jianshouqing” that can be artificially grown. At present, four enterprises have carried out cooperative cultivation, and in the future, this “mountain treasure” will appear on more people’s tables.

中華全國供銷合作總社昆明食用菌研究所里，人工培育的“見手青”已長出肥碩的菌蓋。助理研究員劉祈猛介紹，團(tuán)隊(duì)歷經(jīng)多年攻關(guān)，終于成功培育出可人工種植的“見手青”新品種。目前，已有四家企業(yè)開展合作栽培，未來這份“山珍”將走上更多人的餐桌。

A Bite of Mushroom Aroma

A Lifetime of Yunnan Affection

一筷菌香，一世云南情

Wild mushrooms are not just a seasonal delicacy on Yunnan people’s tables but also a taste bond connecting nature, humanity, and emotions.

野生菌，不只是云南人餐桌上的季節(jié)限定，更是串聯(lián)起自然、人文與情感的味覺紐帶。

Every time the mushroom season comes, sitting around a table with family and friends, watching the bubbling mushroom hotpot, chatting and laughing – that warmth and freshness will eventually settle into the warmest memory of the years.

每當(dāng)菌季來臨，與家人朋友圍坐一桌，守著咕嘟冒泡的菌子鍋，說說笑笑——那種暖意與鮮美，終會沉淀為歲月中最溫暖的回味。

Every bite of mushroom conveys gratitude for nature, a love for life, and a cherishing of simple happiness.

每一口菌子，都是對自然的感恩、對生活的熱愛，也是對簡單幸福的珍惜。

Have you come to Yunnan to eat mushrooms this rainy season?

這個(gè)雨季，你來云南吃菌了嗎？